Supplemental water is necessary for good crop yields in fruit and vegetable production. Water quality is equally as important as water quantity when it comes to fruit and vegetable production. Unfortunately, water can transport harmful microorganisms from adjacent lands or other areas of the farm. The water source and how the water is applied influence the risk for crop contamination to occur.
Water is used for various purposes during production: harvesting, and handling fresh produce, irrigation, cooling, frost protection, as a carrier for fertilizers and pesticides, and for washing tools and harvest containers, hand washing, and drinking.
Washing lettuce. Photo Credit: Cornell University Extension
The FDA’s Food Safety Modernization Act (FSMA) proposed water compliance date is not until 2022, but it will be here before you know it. Water quality is an important component of a Food Safety Plan. A good first step in ensuring compliance with FSMA water quality standards is to evaluate the water sources on the farm. For more information on compliance dates, please visit the Produce Safety Alliance’s Website.
Water Source
The three common sources of water used on farms are surface water, well water, and municipal water.
Surface water includes ponds, lakes, rivers, and streams. It is at the highest risk for contamination because there is limited control on what flows downstream or from adjacent land. Wild and domestic animals, manure piles, and sewage discharges are all potential sources of contamination in surface waters.
The most common water source for North Florida farms is well water. Well water used for farming is at a moderate risk of becoming contaminated, when compared to surface water (highest risk) and municipal water (lowest risk). Wells are at a higher risk of becoming contaminated when located near flood zones, septic tanks, drainage fields, and manure/compost storage areas. The risk of contamination is further heightened if the well was not constructed properly, or if the casing is cracked. Wells should be properly sited, constructed, and maintained to keep contamination risks lower.
A recently installed well pump on a North Florida watermelon farm. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, University of Florida/IFAS Extension
Well Design and Construction
- Preliminary Investigation – A preliminary investigation helps determine the design of a well. Existing wells in the area should be checked out to help determine depth and potential capacity. If records for the area aren’t available, then test holes should be drilled to determine the best location for water production.
- Casing – Casing material should be determined based on site characteristics. The casing needs to extend above the surface water level to reduce contamination risks. The casing is sealed in place with grout. A poor grouting job can also promote contamination. Casing diameter is selected based on well capacity.
- Well Screen – A commercially designed well screen should be installed to minimize hydraulic head loss. Screen diameter and material should be determined based on the preliminary investigation results. Gravel packing is recommended in some areas.
For more recommendations on well design and construction, please visit the University of Florida/IFAS publication: Design and Construction of Screened Wells for Agricultural Irrigation Systems
Please note that it is important to monitor your well water quality at least twice during each growing season. A list of FSMA approved water testing methods can be found at Cornell University’s Law School Website.
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Comments:
February 16, 2021
A permit is required to dig a well. If you live in Northwest Florida, please refer to the Northwest Florida Water Management District's website at https://www.nwfwater.com/Permits/Well-Permits for more information. If you live in another part of the state, then please visit the water management district page to determine which district is responsible for permitting https://floridadep.gov/water-policy/water-policy/content/water-management-districts.
February 16, 2021
What are the rules ,regulations ,and requirements for digging a well your self ?
October 14, 2020
love it!! Great recipes!!
August 17, 2019
Thank you so much for your reply. I think I will leave them grow for now because I don’t have space in my garden.
August 15, 2019
Your description sounds like the plant is making 'pups'. This is normal. You can leave it be and you will have a multi-trunked sago or you can remove the pup and plant it elsewhere. To remove the pup, gently pull back the soil and cut off the pup vertically with a sharp shovel or blade in order to get as much of the pup as possible without harming the trunk of the original sago. Let it dry in a shady area for a day or so and then plant in a pot or directly into a planting bed. Keep moist but not too wet while it gets established.
August 14, 2019
Hi, i need help with my sago palm. Today i noticed new leaves coming out from under the ground very close to the trunk. Is it normal? or i did something wrong? thank you
June 25, 2018
The sago may be experiencing a boron deficiency. The heavy spring and summer rains could have leached the boron from the soil. Dissolve about 2 oz. of Borax in 5 gallons of water and drench the soil all under the canopy. The next set of leaves should be normal. It may be helpful to also apply a general purpose controlled release fertilizer at the same time.
June 23, 2018
Note: a smaller sago I transplanted a few feet away is growing back normally.
June 23, 2018
I have an older sago palm that I moved from one part of my garden to another last year. It did find through the year but ll the fronds got killed off in the harsh winter we had in Virginia Beach despite wrapping and covering in burlap. New fronds just started growing out, but many of the fronds are a slightly lighter shade of green and the needles on many are mutated. They are very wide and rectangular or growing forked. I've grown sagos for many years and have never seen this before. Has anybody experienced something like this?
September 2, 2016
Lubber grasshopper candy. Some years I couldn't get a bloom because the plant was eaten down to the ground.
August 22, 2016
Yes, please send some pictures to me at mderrick@ufl.edu. Include an overall photo of the landscape and then some closer shots of the plants. Also let me know what was done recently in the landscape, including fertilizing and any other products used in the vicinity.
August 22, 2016
Ms. Derrick, I had 3 beautiful Sagos that are over a decade. I had my front yard re done new soil new plants etc. They all look like they are dying all of a sudden. Would you mind if I sent you some pics? Thanks You Joanna
July 27, 2016
Mary - thank you - I have several Bromeliads and immediately went out to empty. Did not occur to me this would be a place for a mosquito. I, definitely, learned from reading your article! Jeanne Blage, M.G.
May 11, 2016
Cynthia, I would encourage you to call you local extension office for more specific help for your situation. Where are you located?
May 11, 2016
help! my pear trees had this problem last year or before( the webworms) and now the fruit is not producing like normal and it looks like the tree is slowly dying . I don't know who to ask for help in my area and my funds are limited.
May 10, 2016
You can send some photos to me at mderrick@ufl.edu. Include an overall photo and a close-up of an affected area.
May 10, 2016
Mary, My sago does not look as bad as your picture. My leaves look as if there is rust on them. Could this also be manganese deficiency? Thank You for your time. Oscie Smith
May 3, 2016
The problem does not sound like a manganese deficiency. The yellowing bottom leaves could be from overwatering. Sagos need to dry out a bit between thorough waterings. When you transplanted the sago, is it sitting at the same soil level as before? Planting at a deeper level can be damaging to the plant. Many commercial potting mixes already have a 3 or 6 month controlled-release fertilizer incorporated into the mix and no further fertilizer should be used until after that time frame is passed. Remember that sagos can take full sun; I don't know how much sun it was getting before purchase but you may gradually want to move it to more sun if it is in a shaded location. Sagos are tough plants and will survive the loss of some leaves.
May 3, 2016
my bottom leaves turned yellow only 2 days after a trasnplant and not are at the point of Frizzle bottom? every artice i see mentions the top leaves tunring yellow not the bottom but then some have pictures saying both are examples of manganese defincienty. just to be clear if my bottom leaves are turning yellow just like the frizzletop symptoms Is that a sign of mangenese defiencienty?? i need to treat it but i want too be sure i do the right thing. i just applied about 2 tablespoons of mangenese sulfate and appied some direcetly on the leaves as well. will this treat the problem? i ony got it 4 weeks ago it was in perfect condition until 2 to 3 days after i transpanted into a bigger pot because the roots where growing out of the old pots drainage holes. I used all purpose potting soil and organic fertalizer until i realized it didnt have the required nutriets. now i switched to palm gain a 8-2-12 fertalizer made for cycads and palms and i also added the magenese sulfate
May 2, 2016
Some of my sasanquas had leaf gall as you have described. My friend Jim told me about your recommended cure and following his recommendations seems to have cured my problem. Thanks for your view.
April 30, 2016
Hi Mary I have emailed you a photo of my plant and am hoping you can help. It was beautiful before I botched it! Allison
April 21, 2016
It's hard to tell from your description what is going on with your sago. Sometimes when lower leaves of a plant have a black coating it is sooty mold that grows on honeydew excreted by insect pests feeding on the undersides of leaves higher up in the canopy. Treating the insects will eventually eliminate the sooty mold. Inspect your sago carefully and email photos to me at mderrick@ufl.edu.
April 12, 2016
I have a sago palm that the lower palms are turning black. Can you tell me what I can do? It is in a container and I need to transplant it. Is it still OK. Thanks Miriam
April 6, 2016
There's nothing like relaxing in my garden after a tough day at work. I have a couple of night blooming flowers like four-o-clocks, evening primrose and moonflowers that instantly brighten up my mood when I sit in the garden after dinner. I'm just mesmerised by the lovely blooms that open up at night. Thanks for sharing ideas that can help me enhance my night garden. Will definitely try planting some of the plants you suggest. Desiree
April 5, 2016
Are you referring to the cones that males produce? That would be normal. You can send me a photo at mderrick@ufl.edu if you'd like.
April 3, 2016
My male sago has developed two crowns. Advice?
January 22, 2016
Chris, Enjoyed seeing a bit of notoriety for my little oyster reef. It was a long time coming but should be worth it. Will be interesting to see what develops around the reef. Thanks for you help in making it happen. Paul
January 14, 2016
I'd go with Oriental Persimmons grafted on to native rootstock if possible, Satsuma budded onto trifoliate, old fashioned "cooking pears" and possibly the Anna and Golden Dorsett apple.
January 14, 2016
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/mg/mg24800.pdf
December 30, 2015
The yellow-brown sponge material is a natural feature of the plant, most likely yours is a female sago. Yes, sagos are either male or female plants. The leaves may be yellowing from lack of light - they like full sun so place it in a very sunny part of your home. Maybe it can stay outside unless it is freezing. You can send photos to me at mderrick@ufl.edu
December 30, 2015
Some fruit trees/bushes that do well in our area with minimal maintenance are fig, Satsuma tangerine, kumquat, persimmon, blueberry, blackberry, muscadine grape. Low-chill varieties of apple, pear, peach, nectarine can be grown but require regular specialized pruning and spraying. Go to gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu and look under the 'edible fruit' tab. Lots of great info there!
December 8, 2015
I live in Beulah (west Pensacola), I'd like to plant some fruit trees. Any suggestions? Thanks.
December 3, 2015
Can you please help me!! i have 2 Sago palms and both of them have yellow-brown sponge like material in the crown of the plant and the leaves are starting to turn yellow. I live in VA and moved the plants indoors for the season about a month back. Is it from overwatering leading to crowm rot? Pl help and how can i attach a picture?
November 10, 2015
Thanks for your response and the tips! Yes, it looks very much like the one in the picture above. I can take some pics tomorrow to send. Ours doesn't have any older fronds on the bottom because we trimmed them all off when the new leaves came out... They looked bad too, but we didn't realize it would be a continuing problem at the time.
November 9, 2015
It sounds like it may well be a manganese deficiency - does it look like my photo in the article? You can send a photo or two to me at mderrick@ufl.edu to confirm. If it is confirmed, for a sago of that size I would spread about 3 pounds of the product evenly under the canopy of the sago and water in well. I would also do a light application of a good quality palm fertilizer like I describe in the article.
November 9, 2015
Hi! We moved into our house this past summer and the sago palm was already established and has probably been here for several years. It's between the front of the house (north facing) and our sidewalk. It finally sprouted some beautiful green fronds this August and within a few weeks they started turning yellow and now brown in the center. I haven't noticed any pests and we haven't treated it or fertilized it yet. I bought some manganese sulfate today to try treating it. I'm in Jacksonville, FL. Is it likely a manganese deficiency? If so, how much should I use? Should I spray it on the plant or put it in the ground around it, or both? The palm is about 4 ft tall and 3-4 ft wide including fronds, the stem/trunk is about 8in in diameter. Thank you for your time and any advice you have!
October 23, 2015
Most refer to it as Cogongrass but some other common names are Japanese bloodgrass, japgrass, and Red Baron grass.
October 17, 2015
Mary, would I know this by another name?
September 26, 2015
Excellent article! I really enjoyed reading it and the content was very informative. The link to more info was also very good. Thanks!
September 23, 2015
Start with clean, sharp pruners or loppers (depends on the size of the fronds) and make cuts close to the trunk. Pruning tools should be cleaned with alcohol or a 10% bleach solution before using to prevent the introduction of disease into the pruning cuts. How many fronds to remove depends on your personal preference. However, remember that the green plant tissue is making food for the plant through photosynthesis and you want to keep the healthy green fronds.
September 19, 2015
What's the proper procedure for trimming a sago palm?
July 20, 2015
Email addresses not working. Is there a good one? Thanks
July 20, 2015
Please send some photos to me at maryd@santarosa.fl.gov and I will take a look.
July 19, 2015
My sago palm is all yellow-brown in middle it is 2ft high in middle of yard in Florida. Is the low magnisium the problem?the outside is green I notice spiders in there could they cause the browning?
July 16, 2015
I live in coastal NC (Wilmington) and my sago palm, which has been doing well for years, has taken a turn for the worse. We had two severe winters, which killed the palm to the east side of the sago, but not the palm on the west side. I do not note any sign of scale on the fronds, The older fronds are turning yellow and becoming crispy. The new fronds are (so far) fine. Frost damage? Low manganese? Too much sun? It is in a moist part of the yard, but the drainage is okay, and, like I said, it has done well for years. Thanks. I can send a photo if that helps. Thanks so much for any help!
June 26, 2015
Ill be sending a few shots of my sago with up close of core which newly sprouted but seems to have scale. Thanks for any advise on how to treat it. In sending them tomderrick@ufl.edu Thanks! Doris
June 25, 2015
Thank you for your comments about scent in the evening garden. They do add to the experience. The datura are showy and fragrant at night but be cautioned; datura is toxic when ingested and can be irritating to some when handled.
June 24, 2015
An excellent article on what and how to plant for a visually appealing evening garden; the mention of sound was nice, as well. But what about fragrance? You can smell flowers you can't see at night, as well as some you can. Some four o'clocks are fragrant, but apparently some are not. One cultivar of Datura inoxia (Datura meteloides) 'Evening Fragrance' has an intoxicating fragrance; moreover it's flower is white and showy. Nicotianas are fragrant at night, too, and some have white flowers. Certain ginger lilies will also perfume the evening garden. And, of course, roses, though some of those are more fragrant than others.
June 19, 2015
Yes, please send me some good photos and let's work on determining the cause and remedy for the problem.
June 19, 2015
I've read through the info and all the comments and think my sad looking Ssgo which had been doing wonderfully in a pot a short while ago has been over watered which has made it susceptiple to pests or disease. I would like to send you a photo if that's ok. I would like to be able to treat the plant and restore it to its original beauty if possible. Any help you could provide would be appreciated. Thank you!
June 18, 2015
Sharpened really refers to a older blade, when dull "sharpened" to as near new condition as possible or replaced.
June 16, 2015
What is a sharp mower blade? When I buy a new one it should be correct, but I certainly wouldn\'t call it sharp.
June 16, 2015
I live in Panama City and wondered which variety of Zoysia grass grows well here?
June 10, 2015
Could you send me photos of the sago, please to mderrick@ufl.edu? Include the age of the sago, how it hass been fertilized and where you reside. Thanks!
June 5, 2015
Contact Jennifer Bearden 850-689-5850 or bearden@ufl.edu
June 5, 2015
I am an Activities Director at Twin Cities Pavilion located in Niceville, Florida. We are an Assisted Living Facility. I am seeking a local farmer to bring in some animals for the residents to see such as cows and goats. Most of our residents do not get out much at all and it would bring great joy for them to see some animals from a farm. If any of you know of anyone please call me at: 850-833-9212 Thank you, Angela Williams Activities Director Twin Cities Pavilion
June 1, 2015
The centet of my Seko palm was yellow. I cut out the center. Watered really well. I have 3 dogs that TT on it.
May 26, 2015
Please send photos to me directly at mderrick@ufl.edu. When you do, please include what you have applied to the plants (fertilizers, pesticides, anything else), where you live, how long the plants have been there, when they first showed symptoms and we will start on figuring out the problem and then, the solution.
May 25, 2015
Not sure how to add a photo but my Sago Palms have all dried on the tips of the leaves. And a few leaves dried and died completely. The Candle Pine alongside has died suddenly too. It appears poisoning has occurred. Will the Manganese Sulfate help at all. There is a little life left in them so need help and any advice please to try nurture them back. Thank you.
May 18, 2015
Unfortunately there is not a silver bullet option as far as disease control goes for fruit trees. A good place to start would be with copper, chlorothalonil (such as Daconil), and Captan. And remember many of the diseases begin when the buds begin to swell so sprays must be applied at bud swell and during flowering.
April 19, 2015
Is there one spray that will work on apples, pears, peaches, plums, nectarines, pecans? I have a small orchard and would like to know when, and what I need to spray on my fruit trees. Also, is there a more natural way to counter pests, diseases, fungus?
March 27, 2015
Doug, Hope things are going well for you. I will keep in mind your farm. Occasionally people ask me about farm land. Where are you moving?
March 27, 2015
Hi Blake. Thanks for the article. My lawn is the pits. One big sand pit. this past early summer i removed our above ground pool that we put in some 20+ years ago. All that has grown is plants with leaves. nothing with a blade. This past fall I broad cast rye grass that has come up. but not seeded as yet. I have a long tradition of not mowing the lawn before Easter so I have places to hide Easter Eggs for the kids. Will get soil samples to the Ext. Office today. Incidentally. I have approx 3 acres fenced and cross fence on the front of my place which I have one acre that I will be planting Sun Hemp the end of April. It was a beautiful yellow this past fall and my goats loved it. Will try to set up to see if it will product a honey crop as claimed by some. Currently I do not make any honey crop even for winter surplus here at my place. After the Spring Titi bloom goes to seed that is it for the bee's. Know anyone looking to buy a farm. We are zoned Agricultural, 3 acres fenced, 7 miles from a grocery store.
March 7, 2015
I enjoyed the article. Now if I can figure out how to keep squirrels away, I'll be all set.
March 4, 2015
Nice article!
March 3, 2015
http://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/hort/2015/03/03/now-is-the-time-to-prune-roses/?utm_source=twitterfeed&utm_medium=facebook
February 28, 2015
We are in Bay County, Panama City Beach, FL. So, now is a good time to do any trimming/cutting back on the knock out roses?
February 27, 2015
For trimming Knockout roses, there are several schools to thought. I would first remove any dead wood or crossing canes, and cut the remainder back by 1/2. Some people allow their Knockout roses to grow without any pruning and some prune them directly with hedge trimmers. They will do well under several different care regimes and are quite accustomed to minimal care. This is the dormant period, roses are not expected to be green all year. If it does not green up, contact your local extension office with a sample or contact your agent. What county are you in?
February 27, 2015
It's best to apply the preemergence herbicide now and then fertilize AFTER April 15. The turfgrass should be fully out of winter dormancy and growing before fertilizing. Also, I recommend a lawn fertilizer that is a 15-0-15 or 15-2-15. The nitrogen (first number) and potassium (third number) should be balanced for best results.
February 26, 2015
Thanks for the response. So I should apply a preemergence herbicide now and then fertilize by mid April, correct? Do I need to wait a certain time after the herbicide to fertilize? A week?
February 26, 2015
In North Florida, your lawn should be fertilized no sooner than mid-April. The lawn should be already actively growing and mowed at least once before fertilizing. Fertilizer applied too early can run off or leach down through our sandy soils before the grass has a chance to use it. Please see http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/lawns/ for more information on fertilizing your particular turfgrass.
February 26, 2015
After you apply a preemergence herbicide, when should you apply a fertilizer for the lawn?
February 24, 2015
When should I trim back my knock out roses? Do I also cut down to the ground the new growth of cranes that have reached the same height as the original height of the rose bush? What makes one rose bush have very few leaves?
January 19, 2015
Hello We are a pest control company in México. We are working with a Company that produces oil from corn grains and soy beans. We want to know at what temperature the next pesticides are degradated: CYPERMETRIN DELTAMETRIN CLORPIRIFOS DIAZINON DICLORVOS Do you have information about that? Would you please share that information? Sincerely Alejandro Duarte
January 8, 2015
How great to see. Kudos, community. Chris at catesgarden.com
September 24, 2014
I find that so many of my native wildflowers get 6 feet tall! Makes me feel like Alice in Wonderland sometimes standing in amongst them. <3
September 23, 2014
Mine are over 6 feet tall. I didn't know they could be pruned, so I will definitely do that next spring!
September 18, 2014
Thanks for the tips Ginny. This is a good article for our babies safety. Having a is a must.
September 5, 2014
The green sprouts are pups that can be removed to form a new plant or they can be left in place to form a clump of sagos. I have some questions about the yellowing of the leaves before I can determine the cause and, thus, the action you should take. Did the sago leaf out normally this spring and have normal green leaves until recently? Have you closely inspected the leaves to search for any pests? Where is the sago in your landscape - in a landscape bed, surrounded by turf, next to a building, etc? How do the other surrounding plants look? Have you applied any fertilizer, insecticide or herbicide in the area? Generally, sagos do not need supplemental fertilization. I see them quite often in unattended landscapes looking quite healthy. You can send a photo to me at mderrick@ufl.edu and that may be helpful.
September 5, 2014
I have a sago palm and all the leaves turned yellow. There are green sprouts coming out at bottom of sago. I live in North Carolina and have only had the tree two years. Should I cut off the yellow leaves to allow the green leaves to grow? Should I fertilize? We had two rough snows this year and lately alot of rain. I have read mixed reviews on whether to cut the yellowed leaves but I dont want to inhibit the new green growth with the dying yellow leaves.
August 25, 2014
Blake, Again it was good talking with you today. Please remember me if you have any opening in your class. My home number is 850-626-3237 and my cell number is 850-380-6455. Maybe have two classes 4PM - 5:30PM and 6PM to 7:30 PM. John Nelson
July 16, 2014
Thanks for the comment. Just click the blue text that says "brand new app". It is a link that will take you to the ap page https://fyn.ifas.ufl.edu/plants
July 16, 2014
I can't find the name of the app! Would love to download it. Where am I missing it in the article and email???
May 15, 2014
That's hard to say. Do the symptoms displayed by your sago match the description and the photo of the manganese deficiency in my article? If so, you can try my remedy. If there is any doubt, contact your local county Extension office for assistance. If you are in Maricopa County, here is their contact info: http://extension.arizona.edu/maricopa Good Luck!
May 15, 2014
My sago palm is about 5 years old. About 4 ft. high. Some of the leaves are dying. I live in phoenix, AZ. Will Manganese sulfate help. I love this palm and do not want to loose it. Please help!!!
February 10, 2014
Sure, Jeanne. Pindo Palm - Butia capitata Mule Palm - this a Butia x Syagrus hybrid, known as x Butiagras nabonnandii European Fan Palm - Chamaerops humilis Chinese Fan Palm - Livistona chinensis Needle palm - Rhapidophyllum hystrix Cabbage Palm - Sabal palmetto Dwarf palmetto - Sabal minor The publication referenced above Palms for North Florida lists many more suitable palms along with their botanical names.
February 10, 2014
Please include the botanical names for plants. Thank you for the good information.
January 7, 2014
Daisy, I have not seen this tree in nurseries I have visited. Your best bet would be to contact independent nurseries in your area. Many times they will find and order specific trees that you would like.
January 7, 2014
This is to get readership thinking about it, to prepare for the next year.
December 26, 2013
Dear Mary, I am looking for a Weeping Hawthorn [Pensacola Hawthorn] for the Destin Library as a memorial tree . I would like to plant on Arbor Day. I am a Okaloosa County Master Gardener and Larry Williams has suggested this tree, however, I have not been able to locate this tree. I would appreciate any help you may be able to provide. Thank you, Daisy Pfoertner
December 25, 2013
Am wondering why this was emailed on Christmas Eve since Arbor Day is weeks away. The timing seems strange. But perhaps this was a Test to see if anyone was reading this.
December 19, 2013
All are welcome to attend the event. The class is more tailored to adults but she will still be able to attend if she so chooses.
December 19, 2013
Hey! Can kids attend this? I have an 11 year old that is getting a greenhouse for Christmas. She's an AVID gardener wanting to learn as much as she can. Please respond to me in an email kindelawards@yahoo.com Thanks, Paula K.
December 3, 2013
Thanks for spreading the word about some of the great resources we have here in the panhandle!
November 27, 2013
Mary, This is a great article. I hope it is ok , I am forwarding it to the entire Milton Garden Club.
November 6, 2013
Great article and I don't even like football.
November 5, 2013
This article is one to keep as a reference. Nice article. Joanne
November 5, 2013
Blake, Great article and well written!
September 25, 2013
Thank you, Vic, for sharing your experiences with using manganese sulfate! You don't mention how your sago palm responded to the treatment but I infer that it responded well to the manganese sulfate application. You are correct in saying that the rain helped wash some of the excess manganese from the soil; sandy soils will allow much of it to leach although rich, organic soils will hold onto it more tightly. This is a good reminder to all to use manganese sulfate and all other fertilizers according to professional recommendations and according to label directions. If you have not done it lately, I would encourage you to have a soil test for pH and nutrient levels through the University of Florida soils lab in Gainesville. Your local extension agent can give you the kit for sending in your soil. Different plants have varying responses to high levels of nutrients in fertilizers. Some can tolerate it well and others are very sensitive. It seems you learned that first hand. One of the major symptoms of manganese toxicity is the chlorosis (yellowing) of leaves starting with the new leaves. This happens because excess manganese interferes with the absorption of iron and the plant will develop an induced iron deficiency. Other symptoms are dead brown spots on older leaves with yellowing areas around them, delayed fruit ripening, and distortion of new leaves. For more information please see: Touria El‐Jaoual & Douglas A. Cox (1998) Manganese toxicity in plants, Journal of Plant Nutrition, 21:2, 353-386.
September 25, 2013
Good atricle. I think they nailed it. Manganese toxicity. I am thinking the excess rain has helped as much as anything to leech out the overdose and I may add some dolomitic lime to a few of the plants.
September 24, 2013
Below find an interesting article on Manganese Toxicity http://mrec.ifas.ufl.edu/fdacs/Cir353.htm
September 24, 2013
Thanks for the sago nutrient tips. I read this after the fact but it is essentially what I did. I saw the commercial manganese sulphate bags at the store and got one (has a sago or palm on the bag). Here is my question. I had a fair amount of manganese sulphate left over and so I just dosed a little at other plants around the house. Probably a bad idea. MOST of the plants handled it fine. But a few took a sudden shock hit body blow. YEllowed up and knocked back a gardenia. Of three near each ohter only one was hit hard and it yellowed bad and browned and lost leaves. It might yet survive but the other two ether side will eventually fill in anyway. The other plant that took it poorly was a very nice Jasmine (larger leaf kind) that I'd transplanted about three years ago. It was doing well but after this it began to turn red leaved and the leaves died off. AS they died off, new leaf buds were and continue to push out from the branches and the ends of the crawling vines maintained greed and grew. I don't think I killed it but it was close. It is slowly recovering. I had some yellow splotches of grass that had not responded to ammonium nitrate so I threw some manganese sulphate on those areas too. Just about killed it out - was brown in a week. But it is greening up again and will be ok in a few more weeks. I had used Aluminum Sulphate (I think) a couple of years ago to "acidify" some soil I had erroniously applied lime to and it worked great to save my centipede grass - which I now know liles acid soil. Anyway - the Aluminum Sulphate did the trick that time (made it more acid). But the manganese sulphate was did not play well with the grass. There was PLENTY Of rain after this application. And for weeks afterward. I think the rain allowed the sudden hit of acidic soil which shocked the sensitive plants but after more time -- the added rain has at last diluted some of the effect and the plants are in recovery. So that is my story. Mr. "Never leave a partial bag when you can throw it all out and be done with it".
September 18, 2013
Mr. Gold, There should be little concern as long as the harvest aid materials are applied to the target site according to label directions. Most labels give specific directions for the applicator to follow regarding equipment use, weather considerations, and other factors to prevent drift. However, since cotton harvest aids work by either herbicidal or plant hormonal activity there is the potential for injury to non-target plants and other organisms if drift does occur. Most of the products used are not persistent in the environment and other crops can be planted in treated areas within a specified re-crop interval listed on the label.
September 16, 2013
Hello Mr. Donahoe: Thank you for your very informative article on 2013 Cotton Harvest Timing and Defoliation. I currently lease a portion of my property to farmers in Okaloosa County. They normally rotate their crop annually between cotton and peanuts. This year they are cultivating cotton. In the past, I have been concerned about the defoliation phase of the crop cycle on my property since I attempt to maintain the non-cultivated acreage in a more natural state conducive for indigenous fauna and floral. Specifically, I would like to know if any of the defoliants used are harmful to the natural non-cultivated acreage, and to the ecosystem of a surface pond on my property that acts as a watershed for the surrounding area? Thank you in advance for your time and consideration to my question. Best regards, Allan J. Gold
September 4, 2013
Thank you for the comments! That gives me an idea to do a future article on what other edible flowers we can include in our gardens. As for recipes, I will leave that to the chefs of the world. Please post a good recipe for nasturtium if you develop or find one!
September 4, 2013
The only way I have seen nasturtium served is in a salad or as a cake decoration where the beauty of the delicate blossom can be enjoyed. The nasturtium in my garden do adorn my salads from time to time, but most are eaten on the spot as they are picked! You could consult some of the cooking websites for more creative uses. I am more of a gardener than cook (as my family will attest to!).
August 27, 2013
The title of the article really caught my interest. I followed some of the links to other articles on edible flowers, but nothing substantive was readily available, just more "teaser" info. I will seek out more info containing uses and recipes. However, if you have knowledge of other good sites, please share them in your article. Bon appetit!
August 27, 2013
when you talk about them being edible ,are thinking of them just being used for salad and as garnish on a plate, or are you thinking of some recipes ? If you do have some recipes, please share with readers.
August 19, 2013
Meloidogyne Spp. A nematode Has parasitically effected this Clemson Spineless Okra
August 2, 2013
very helpful info. tomatoes are tomatoes....even here in New York state.
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