Turfgrass Replacement

Area of a lawn with bare areas and weeds needing sod replacement

If 30% or more of your lawn is covered with weeds, bare spots, or other damage, it’s usually more practical to replace it with new sod. In many cases, the time, cost, and effort needed to repair the area are greater than simply starting fresh. In some situations, maintaining a lawn that’s simply green may be perfectly acceptable.

When you’re ready to install or replace a lawn, follow these 10 important steps:

1. Site assessment considerations

What needs to be done to prepare the site?
What is the timeline to complete preparation tasks BEFORE sod delivery; sod should be laid within 48 hours of cutting.
Make sure the site is weed free, not compacted, and level.
Choose the right turfgrass species for the site; for information on turfgrass for Florida lawns click HERE.

2. Clean and regrade the site

Remove debris, brush, large roots, rocks, weeds, and tree stumps.
Do not put sod over existing weeds and grass.
Hand remove or use a nonselective herbicide to kill existing weeds and grass (several applications may be needed for complete weed control).
Slope the site 1% to 2% (1/2-to 1-foot fall per 50 feet) away from structures or toward drains.
Avoid steep slopes and mounds as it is difficult to establish grass and mowing is dangerous. Steeper than 3:1 (three feet of horizontal run for every one foot of vertical rise) is not recommended due to risk of mower roll over.
Rough grade should match the final grade after amendments added.
If an area cannot be leveled, use groundcover plants other than turfgrass.

3. Perform a soil analysis before planting

pH range should be 6.5 to 7.5.
Never apply fertilizer before planting.
To order your University of Florida Soil Test Kit click HERE.

4. Perform an irrigation system audit

Visually inspect for and repair leaks, nozzle clogging, broken heads, and uneven head height.
Perform a catch can test.
Adjust sprays and rotors for head-to-head coverage and application uniformity.
Adjust irrigation controller for needed application rate.
To learn more about irrigation and how to perform a catch can test click HERE.

5. Add soil amendments if there is not a good organic matter base (5% OM)

Quality compost can improve poor soil, reduce pests and conserve water.
Refer to Practical Instructions for Amending Urban Soils.

6. Rototill to a depth of 6-8 inches

Mark utilities and irrigation lines 1st.
Rototilling will loosen compacted soil to promote good root growth.
Incorporates amendments.

7. Final grading

Completed just prior to laying sod.
Hand-rake and drag with a hand-pulled drag or tractor-drawn tiller rake or grading box and then hand-finished.
Lightly compress soil with a water ballast roller to prevent footprints of no more than ½ inch deep.
Roads, driveways, and walkways should be level with, or slightly above, the final grade accounting for thickness of sod.

8. Planting (laying sod)

Sod provides instant cover, uniformity, and less pressure from weeds.
Fit pieces together as tightly as possible in a T-pattern.
Tamp or roll to remove air pockets and ensure good soil contact.

9. Irrigation – Days 20-30 every other day and then as needed or allowed

Click on the chart to enlarge irrigation recommendations for day 1-20.
Days 20-30 every other day and then as needed or allowed by your area irrigation code.

10. Post-planting care

Do not allow the sod to get too dry or too wet for 30 days.
Make a preventative fungicide application 5-7 days after planting.
Begin mowing when the sod has resistance to gently tugging.
Do not fertilize for 30 to 60 days following planting.

For more information contact Susan at UF/IFAS Extension Hillsborough County at 813-744-5519 Ext. 54103 or szcrmchz@ufl.edu.

Go to the ProHort website: https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/hillsborough/professional-horticulture/

An Equal Opportunity Institution. UF/IFAS Extension, University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, Andra Johnson, Dean.