Please send me an email mjorwat@ufl.edu

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/beekeeping-in-the-panhandle-virtual-conference-tickets-102683834112 Please register for the webinar !

Are there local bee keepers looking to place there hives on other people's property? I'm from North Carolina and am starting a vegetable garden and need all that help and advice I can get. Regards, Maggie

I will save the date for 2020. I am a home school grandma and very interested in bee keeping, not only for myself, but for my two older grandchildren whom I home school. If you know of any future bee educational events prior to 2020, please let me know. Sincerely, Mrs. Marilyn Jarmon

Limited Commercial Landscape Maintenance (LCLM - commercial) Training & Exams Date: Thursday January 17, 2018 Location: Washington County Extension Office 1424 Jackson Ave Chipley FL. 32428 Registration: Matthew Orwat, UF/IFAS Extension Washington County 850-638-6180 or mjorwat@ufl.edu Class Fee: $40/person class fee must be payed online prior to attending the class at site below, lunch will be provided https://www.eventbrite.com/e/limited-commercial-landscape-maintenance-lclm-commercial-exam-training-session-ceu-class-tickets-53195459050 Exam Fee: $150 exam fee must be payed and application completed online prior to attending the class (if testing) at https://aesecomm.freshfromflorida.com/ Make sure to apply for only one of the following licenses: Limited Commercial Landscape Maintenance Personnel Please bring documentation regarding this payment If you have questions about the license application, please call 850-617-7997 or see this website https://www.freshfromflorida.com/Business-Services/Pest-Control/Licensing-and-Certification Additional items: Exam students must bring • current picture I.D. (driver’s license, i.e.) • LCLM exams only need Certificate of Insurance with a minimum aggregate of $500,000 (DACS Form 13654) http://forms.freshfromflorida.com/13654.pdf If you are testing for Limited Commercial Landscape Maintenance (LCLM), you must attend all day to earn the 6 CEUs required to take this exam. Exams will be available for Limited Commercial Landscape Maintenance and for Limited Lawn & Ornamental pesticide licensing only.

would very much like to know when the next class for your LCLM starts again?

I appreciated your article. I am a Master Gardener in Nassau County and did a rose presentation last month. I wish I had your list then to add to my recommendations. We are trying to propagate Louis Philipe for our May sale. If you have any other information we can share with the public, it would be appreciated. Thank you.

Thanks! My favorite is my Louis Philippe. It was given to me by an old time gardener here in Pensacola. Very easy to propagate and I've never had to do anything but prune it.

This is the larva of a moth of the same name, I believe. Sting is painful. No beautiful butterfly comes from this.

Great idea, thank you for the suggestion!

Dear Matthew, The young lubbers have a habit of collectively gathering on vertical plant leaves such as iris. I find multiple groups of them in the early morning. I used to pick them off individually, but found that I could get rid of them easier with my shop vac. I once had hundreds of lubbers gathered on the stucco wall outside my potting shed. I vacuumed them all in minutes. After this, I filled the vacuum with water, waited a couple of hours and then emptied and cleaned the canister. Safe, easy and effective. Judy

Hi, Matthew ...Just curious. If moth balls are so highly toxic, illegal to use in yards or gardens, and are also not allowed in items/places of list added...just what the heck are they manufactured for, and why in God's name are they still being manufactured?? Thank you for a response, Alisa Brown

Hate those little buggers! Thanks for the info! (PS: Around this neck of the woods, they are also known as "rocket jaws". Why "rocket" I'll never know, but jaws is for sure because they've got quite a bite.)

Are you implying that a high pH can control broomsedge?

Very helpful. Good information and the pictures help us to recognize the good guys. Thanks.

This was a VERY useful article. I have always wanted to have info on this WITH pictures of the good bugs. Without those pictures the information isn't applicable. Thank you!

We had to cancel the workshop but have plans to attempt to reschedule this coming fall.

I am grazing 13 cows, 5 horses, 70 goats on 46 acres of sandy soil in Gainesville, Florida. I can do this by continually moving animals around to 1-2 acre pastures, all fenced in. I maintain good Bahai pasture in late spring, summer and early Fall but dormant season is a problem. Rye grass helps but I need more and have to rely on rolls of hay and square bales of perennial peanuts to keep animals satified. I am looking for FORAGE in late fall, winter and early spring. I am experimenting wih oats, chicory, daikon radish but Ryegrass seems to out perform others. CAN YOU RECOMMEND SOMETHING ELSE FOR DORMANT SEASON?

Thank you Mark. I will share your article with my clients. I am a Realtor with Keller Williams Realty covering Lake and Sumter Counties. My wife and I live on acreage and have a couple of horses. My speciality is homes on acreage. I try to emphasize the importance of pasture management but sometimes my message does not get through.

I would like to sign up for this class. Is there still openings for March 4th?

I applied commercial fertilizer for 30 years in the Piedmont of VA before switching to poultry litter. If the ph is corrected DAP will eliminate broomsedge, but bio-solids works the best with poultry litter being better than DAP. Too many cattlemen think that lime will work, but P is the lacking nutrient in our red clay soils.

I like wax myrtle and have about 8 that I planted in my yard several years ago. The only draw back is that they tend to put out runners that have to periodically be cut back. Otherwise the bush would spread out over a large area.

Possibly. They like something about that plant and wildlife are attracted to the berries.

For the last two falls my wax myrtles have been attacked by squirrels. They bite off the ends of each branch until the plant is nude. These are mature female shrubs covered with berries. Could the sap be attracting them.

I am not aware of any issues with this fungus for children and pets. Spraying with a forceful hose end and raking should remove it.

Hi! Is it safe for children and pets to play around?

Cogongrass is, without a doubt, hard to control. This is especially true if you are attempting to tackle a well established stand with only glyphosate. Generally speaking, a multiple year integrated approach is the best option we have. Imazapyr can be a valuable part of a control program. If you are attempting to control cogongrass around hardwoods you may encounter some issues but generally in pine stands and grazing/open lands imazapyr works well. To me, the biggest issue with imazapyr is the potential for new weed problems associated with the prolonged periods of bare ground its use can result in.

This is one exotic plant that I never managed to kill out when I was still doing contracting in North Central Florida. Jackson Guard tells me that Imazypr seems to work but it kills trees well before affecting the Cogon grass

Hello Mark: Thanks for your article on Cogongrass control. I just wanted to pass along that I have experienced the greatest success with controlling Cogongrass using a commercially bought herbicides consisting of 41% glyphosate. I mix the herbicide with water as instructed (normally 4oz/gallon using a spray tank) and I add a surfactant. Other attempts using lower percentages of glyphosate produced only temporary results. One application in the spring and one in the fall achieved excellent results, and for the past two years, I now monitor the area and spot spray if needed. Best regards, Allan Gold

You're Very Welcome !

Hi Matthew: Thanks for this useful article. This year we had some erosion mitigation done to our front yard that included all new turf. This was an expensive, yet successful fix to a long standing problem. The new centipede is doing great, however I freaked out yesterday when I saw slime mold in a few places. With all the rain lately I figured it was a fungus. This morning there was another patch. I began thinking about anti-fungal treatments. Thanks to your article I now know that it's mostly harmless and temporary. Thank you. Lee Berger Tallahassee

Lanny, thank you for your interest in the article. The simple answer to your question is yes; there will be competition between the perennial peanut and the aeschynomene seedlings. Generally speaking, unless soil moisture is very high aeschynomene dose not do very well when broadcast with or without competition. I also have some concerns about site selection, perennial peanut and aeschynomene generally prefer different locations. If you would like to discuss this further please email or give me a call at the office.

We have an established plot of perennial peanuts and are getting prepared to plant aeschynomene for our spring planting. Can we broadcast the aeschynomene over the peanuts or will they compete? Thanks

I have seen some of this in my clover, however did not know what it was until I saw this article. My farm is in Monroe County AL. about 75 miles North of Pensacola FL.

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/uw070

Hi, I saw your photo, Hard to tell from the picture, but I think it is a rat snake. They are very beneficial to keep down other problematic wildlife.

My question is regarding fruit protection from late spring freeze??!!. I'm in the Panhandle of Florida near Pensacola. Late freeze this year wiped out my blossoms and I have "ONE" satsuma on my tree!!.. The Tree is between 7-9 years old around 10feet high

excellent article - we will pass the information on to our customers Donna Legare Native Nurseries (Tallahassee)

Matt, do wish I could attach a photo! Had a LARGE snake which got stuck in our 2nd floor soffit! I'm sure was chasing something! Also have a closeup of it and why it think it is a rat snake.

Rat snakes are great rat and mouse control, If they are truely rat snakes, try to keep them around !

Matt, Very Interesting. Thank you for sharing. I know you have a space limitation! BUT, If mothballs are problematic at best in the garden....what are the more effective ways..."to control indoor pest problems or wildlife incursions"? Starting to see a number of what looks like rat snakes!! Probably better than rats--seen them before.

Thank you very much for this information and I will pass it on. It seems many people in the local area are unaware of the harmful effects of Naphthalene.

Interesting article...keep up the good work. I have a small vineyard here in Clarksville, FL...less than 100 vines...with several different varieties of muscadine but mostly Black Spanish. I purchased several Noble grapevines from Esposito's in Tallahassee a couple of years ago. They didn't bare the first year, but did the year after. As it turns out one of the vines is some kind of VERY prolific and vigorous bronze grape which matures several weeks after the Nobles. Do you know of a way to identify this vine. Also, is it possible at this stage to graft a Noble onto this vine...if so when would be the best time to do this? Thanks, geach

Unfortunately, I don't have one. Check out Bugwood.org it might.

Pleas post a photo of the butterfly that hatches from the Saddleback this will help me thank you, we find your web page interesting and helpful Brook A Bowman

Here is a neat video about pruning grapes, along with links to more information http://trec.ifas.ufl.edu/fruitscapes/Fruitscapes-videos/grapes/pruning-grapes.shtml

Thanks. How aggressively shoud I prune the vines? Any sources for pruning guidelines that you would recommend?

Pruning late can cause winter injury, since it signals the vine to begin growth. Wait until late January to mid February to prune and you will see better results. Yes, I have been out to Byron's place several times. Thanks, Matt

Matthew: Nice article. Any suggestions for pruning information after the harvest? I juiced about 60 pounds of native and new variety muscadines this summer and produced about 6 gallons of delicious juice and lots of pulp for my redworms in the vermiculture area of my compost for the farm. Do you know Byron Biddle in Vernon? He was a classmate of mine in Chipley for a time many many years ago. Visit my website www.clearcreekfarm.net for some pictures of my arbor. Thanks, Ray Davis

Since this usually a localized disease, not causing long-term damage to landscape plants, fungicides are rarely necessary. Cultural control is usually the best option. In instances where heavy infection has been noted in the past, branded products containing active ingredients mancozeb (dithane) or chlorothalonil (daconil) that are labeled for landscape shrubs may prevent the disease when used according to label directions. It is important to use more than one type (mode of action) of fungicide to reduce the possibility of pathogen resistance, so a mancozeb / chlorothalonil rotation would work well, when daily temperatures are under 85 degrees.

What are the "preventative fungicides" that you reference above? Thank you.

Cadre and Impose do have the same active ingredient, imazapic, but Cadre is not labeled for use on forages.

We have been told that Cadre herbicide is as effective as Impose on Vaseygrass. Have you found that to be a fact?

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ag245 and http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ag259 provides general recommendations for herbicides that are labeled for tree removal or stump regrowth. Most homeowner herbicide products labeled with active ingredient Triclopyr have the word ”brush” or ”stump” in the trade name and are excellent choices for the cut stump treatment. You can find these products in lawn and garden section of local stores. Glyphosate herbicides are also readily available for homeowners.

Which specific herbicides are labeled for this uses?

Great article! We have removed several tallows with this in mind without any sprouts. I am eager to see if yaupon responds accordingly. Thank you. Elizabeth Farrell Okaloosa County

Great tips, especially about the ceiling fan rotation

Hello, This is a good question. There is no hard or fast rule to determine when a tree is no longer young. If I had to pin it to a year, I would say that trees under 7 years could be considered young for the purposes of this article. Trees need the most protection when they are under 3 years old. They are also easier to protect at this age since they are smaller. From 5-7 years, if trees are vigorous and healthy, less protection is needed. At 10 years old, minimal protection is needed unless temperatures drop below the mid teens (degrees Fahrenheit). Under extremely cold conditions, freeze protection through irrigation is focused on the center of the tree to protect the inner limbs and graft union from damage. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ch182 See this article for more information on micro irrigation cold protection

I have been following all the IFAS information for several years now about my citrus, but I have never seen it answered as to what a "young" tree is. Is it a certain height, years bearing fruit, years in the ground, years after graft? How can I tell?

Not sure on that, try it out with some larvae and find out. I don't think anyone's tried it before.

excellent article - glad you are focusing on the positive attributes rather than how to prevent them from eating your herbs - We sell more parsley plants at our nursery (Native Nurseries) for caterpillars to eat than we do for people to eat. For those that want all the parsley for themselves, we recommend moving the caterpillars to rue or one of the native larval foods which we also sell.

Good article; thanks! I don't imagine that dog fennel is a host plant, right? Bob

Royal Empress Paulownia tree

Princess Tree Paulowniaa

I think the name of the tree is Lucky Sapphire Dragon. I have several in my yard

I think the name of the tree is Lucky Sapphire Dragon. I have several of these in my yard.

Is it catalpa?

these are Bottlebrush seed capsules.

Those are the Bottlebrush seed capsules and quite interesting.

Datura will reseed, but Brugmansia will not. In fact, with the large number of hybrids around these days, if it does produce viable seed, the new plant will not likely resemble the parent. They are hardy in zone 8 and below. I have a lot of them.

My guess is an Angel Trumpet, but I didn't think they were classified as small trees.

The old saying is, "Angel Trumpets (Brugmansia) blow down from heaven. Devil Trumpets (Datura) blow up from you-know-where.

This is Datura, but it is commonly know as "angel's Trumpet."

It is a Brugmansia commonly known as an angel's trumpet. Datura is also called angel's trumpet but this is a very nice brugmansia.

It is Brugmansia.

Brugmansia - looks like Isabella

Brugmansia... mine are tall enough not to interest the dog. No children here to be worried about either.

My grandmother always called it angels' trumpets. Love the variety of colors now available.

Brugmansia

Mandevilla or trumpet vine?

Angel trumpet--beautiful & poisonous.

Karen, I like the injection technique, too. It works, but timing is everything. The svb's beat me to it this year.

Interesting advice. I have never tried that but will give it a try

Last year I was pretty effective at curbing infection rates of the pesky svb by routinely injecting the hollow stems with liquid Bt. I picked up a large hypodermic and needle at my local feed and seed. Insulin hypodermic sizes are too small and will clog. We only have room in my church garden for a few squash bushes so they are high value. I just told the pastor not to worry if he saw me wandering around the garden with a hypodermic needle - I was just shooting up squash!

Sharon, thank you for the informative comment and for expanding on a point I just touched on in the article. I did not know that inserting a stick to crush the grub would be effective. I learn something new every day ! Matt

Vigilant scouting is right! Nearly every morning I examine my squash vines for new incursions by these voracious larvae. I look for the "frass," the chewed up plant that the larvae excrete, as it's hard to see the holes. They attack all parts of my squash vines, from the main stem to leaf stems to veins in the leaves, but their favorite is the flower buds. It's hard to see the hole in the base of the buds, but if I squeeze one gently and it feels soft, I can be fairly certain there is a grub in there. If it's still firm, I leave the bud on the plant. The site of the incursion is often an orange color. If it's in a leaf vein I cut out the affected part of the leaf and kill the grub, but if it's in the stem of the leaf I usually cut the whole stem back to the main stem because I don't like to leave those long hollow stems on the plant for other pests to enter and hide. If you attempt to cut a grub out of the main stem, cut lengthwise along the stem, not crosswise. When you see the larva, if you can't get it out you can simply insert a stiff twig and crush it right inside the stem. Then as suggested, bury the compromised stem in soil. If the stem has grown upright and cannot be buried, you could wrap a short length of pantyhose around the wound and tie it off. I have managed to fend off two waves of borers, and my second squash harvest is coming on now.