PROBLEM:

LOOKS LIKE / SOUNDS LIKE:

POSSIBLE SOLUTION(S) NEEDED:

• Misdirected heads

• You’re watering something other than your grass/plants (i.e. the street, pathways, driveway, joggers, etc…)

• Re-align head(s), increase/decrease spray radius, adjust angle (Helpful DIY tutorial links located at the end of the post!!)
• Replace nozzles w/ custom spray patterns (available for corners, angles, narrow curb strips, etc. – cheap & easy fix!!)
  • PRO TIP: Different brands use different thread patterns, so be sure to get the correct ones!

• Leaking seal(s)

• Water pools around the base of the sprinkler. (Example)
• Spray seems weak
• Head only pops up part-way, or not at all

• “Exercise” the head up and down a few times. (Sometimes, after non-use, the seal is just stiff…)
• Check if turf overgrowth is preventing full extension. If needed, cut away turf to allow head to pop up freely.
• If unable to resolve, it’s easier to replace the head than try to repair the seal.
  • PRO TIP: Be sure to match spray pattern & precipitation rate.

• Missing nozzles/ broken heads / broken pipes

• Missing nozzle = “Old Faithful” is erupting in your yard.
• Broken head or pipe = Water is pooling / gushing / gurgling. (Example)
• Other heads in the zone have low pressure / low output

• Locate/repair broken pipe(s)
• Replace broken head(s)
  • PRO TIP: Be sure to match spray patterns & precipitation rates.

• Head(s) too low

• Rather than spraying water across the entire lawn, the head is basically pressure-washing the nearby grass.
• Minimal spray/mist gets beyond the adjacent turf.
• Uneven coverage results in dry patches of turf.

• Install taller heads. For example, replace a 4″ riser with a 6″ riser.
  • PRO TIP: This may require a ‘swing joint’ to keep the retracted head flush with ground-level.
• After repairs, perform a “catch-can” test to ensure even coverage throughout the zone.

• Clogged nozzles

• Head pops up, but spray is weak or absent, WITHOUT water pooling around its base

• Carefully unscrew the nozzle, remove debris, clean or replace the small filter.
  • PRO TIP: When removing a nozzle, be careful not to lose any small parts – springs, filters, etc.

• Uneven coverage / a.k.a. poor “distribution uniformity” for reasons NOT listed above

• Part of the zone is receiving much less water than the rest (Verify with a “catch-can” test)
• Option 1: Obstructed Spray – Looks like: An object (i.e. shrub, new fence, etc.) is blocking spray pattern. Sounds like: You’re pressure-washing your plant, fence, etc.
• Option 2: Trapped head – Looks like: A head “should be there,” but isn’t. – Sounds like: Odd gurgles, squeaks, squeals (or sometimes silent…)
• Option 3: Mixed heads – Looks like: Combo of different brands/models, or rotors/sprays present in a single zone applying water at very different rates.

• Obstructed spray: Relocate the existing head – OR – cap off existing head and add a new one in better location.

• Trapped head: “Rescue” trapped head(s) from below turf stolons by cutting away turf overgrowth.

• Mixed heads: Replace with heads that apply water more uniformly. (Best solution depends on individual situation.)

• Damaged drip tubing

• Totally cut = Water pouring out as if from a garden hose (Example)
• Partially cut / missing emitter(s) = Narrower, high-pressure stream spraying out of drip tube. (Example)
• May be causing erosion or washed-out area in landscape bed.

• Repair drip tubing with appropriate “goof plugs” or other fittings as needed.
• PRO TIP: If trees and/or shrubs are well-established (greater than 5+ years old), determine whether continued drip irrigation is still necessary. Drought tolerant trees and shrubs may be self sufficient once fully established, reducing or eliminating the need for regular watering except in times of prolonged drought.