Although temperatures are still hovering around 90° F, the last fall fertilization date is approaching quickly. Mid-September is the
deadline for applying fertilizer to warm season turf-grasses and landscape ornamental plants for the year. Why is September 15 the cutoff date? In North Florida, our estimated first frost date is November 15. When fertilizer is applied the nutrients encourage new growth that typically takes about 6-8 weeks to become “hardened off” and able to tolerate low or freezing temperatures. So, simply backtracking on the calendar gives you an idea of when to make the last application of fertilizer (if needed).
If September 15 is at the end of our warm season feeding schedule, the next question should be “when should I fertilize in the spring?” Although Northwest Florida’s average last frost date is listed as March 15, UF/IFAS Turf Specialist Dr. Bryan Unruh does not recommend fertilizing before April 15 in the panhandle. There are two main reasons for this later date. One is that the March 15 last frost date is an estimate, many times cold weather follows a warming trend in late winter/early spring. During April of this year warm weather was followed by cool temperatures with cold winds that caused landscape plant damage. If fertilizer was applied before this weather arrived, some cold damage may have been evident this spring in affected landscapes. The second reason is that if fertilizer is applied to turf or plants that are not actively growing and using those nutrients, it may leach out of our sandy soils. Nutrients do not wait for plants to use them; they can be washed out and become a source of nonpoint source pollution.
To read more tips on fertilizing visit EDIS ENH1174 “The Lawn Fertilizer Toolbox”
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Comments:
May 28, 2021
You will need the minus sign. In the ArcGIS search box type in the Decimal Degree conversion. for Fountain Bleu Box Cars -85.8833, 30.15 https://arcg.is/ubaHD
May 2, 2021
How do you put the negative number when I try to enter without no (-) tells me I am 4,000 miles away
April 26, 2019
Just a quick note thanking you all for providing valuable recovery information and tools.
February 13, 2019
Hi Susan, Registration opened on the 11th, and future events will also be 10 days before the event. The link to register is here https://uf_ifas_part2_shrubs.eventbrite.com If you have any trouble getting signed up please email me at juliebmcconnell@ufl.edu. I apologize for the delayed response, notifications on the website are not sent directly to me. Julie
January 20, 2019
Hi Julie, When do you expect to open up ticket purchases for the next seminar on February 21st? Thank you so much for these series! Susan Higby
July 3, 2016
Latest release from Health Department in Bay County / Bay County TDC via Twitter June 28, 2016 https://twitter.com/Visit_PCB/status/748315619682983936
June 17, 2016
Yes, I had a call about this problem this morning, they are here in Bay County
May 6, 2016
I noticed aphids on my lettuce and planned to take them in to show some students. On the planned date I found they they had been consumed by parasitic wasps. I felt it was a sign of a balanced ecosystem.
February 3, 2016
Where can I find seed potatoes (red)? I am in Gulf Breeze.
July 22, 2015
I was actually wondering about the issue with the mower blades. I am constantly getting the ends of the grass cut on a way that has the tip of it drying out. Is the fact that the blades are a little worn, that is causing this issue of the grass getting dry at the top.
June 8, 2015
For sure on the Aucuba! I love it and use it throughout my front yard along with the cast iron plants. One of my favorite shade plants however is the Apostle's Iris, 'Neomarica gracilis'. They have survived the coldest winters so far and have come back beautifully. Thanks for the article. I have 2 shady beds I am renovating right now so I look forward to finding the Japanese Plum Yew and the Mahonia!
April 19, 2015
An evergreen shrub that does well in the shade for me is Aucuba japonica 'Serratifolia' An all green aucuba.
April 15, 2015
Nice article Julie. Just a side note that occurred to me as I looked at the pictures. Please don't recommend (I know you didn't in this article) that people plant close to the flare roots of a tree. The first radial distance of 3x the DBH of the tree is very, very important root area and what the arborist needs access to for many treatments. As important, perhaps more important is: 1. the tree trunk and exposed flare roots need to be dry when it is not raining and having vegetation in close proximity eliminates the breeze and keeps the tree trunk damp creating a decay/fungi opportunity; 2. cast iron plant, Jasmine, fern, etc. are major competitors in that critical root area. If a tree is stressed one of the cultural remedies is to clear out plants in that critical root area and install organic mulch, preferably pine straw. Keep up the good work!!
March 26, 2015
Hi Stan, I don't know how frequently that is done, however, if the gardener plans to change out the plants after a very short period of time they may leave them in containers. Some commercial properties may do that if they plan to swap out if anything declines (theme parks, other high profile spots), but most plants should not stay in original containers indefinitely. Eventually the plant's root system will outgrow the pot and will be unable to take up enough water to sustain itself. Julie
March 14, 2015
Miss McConnell, Is it a common practice by some homeowners to leave the annuals in their pots when they plant them in the Spring? Thank you
December 5, 2014
Hi David, The palm you are describing is likely Butia capitata also known as Jelly Palm or Pindo Palm. The fronds have a bit of a blueish or silvery color to them that makes them fairly distinctive. More can be found about this palm at the following link http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/ST/ST10500.pdf. If you like, send a picture to my email and I can confirm if that's what you have. Have a great day! Julie juliebmcconnell@ufl.edu
December 4, 2014
We have a palm, locally known as a Jelly Palm" It's a very slow growing, like 12 feet in 15 years, and very bushy compared to the typical King palm. It puts out small groups of flowers, inside a hard, 3-4 ft. long woodlike, split, shell, which, of course become seeds. That is apparently what some old timers used for "Jelly:". Jelly Palm is not likely it's correct name. From that vague description, can you tell me what it is, or if not, what I can provide to help properly name it.
November 5, 2014
Please give me a call. I would like to discuss how Farm Credit can be involved in this program. My number is 850-718-5511. Thanks, Lesia Andrews
September 7, 2014
Hi John, Butterflies are rather specific about where they lay eggs and which plants their larvae (caterpillars) will feed on. For the Gulf Fritillary, the passionflower vine is the preferred larval host. I would not expect having this plant in your garden would have any direct effect on the number of caterpillars that would target tomatoes and peppers. If you would like to learn more about pests that are more specific to tomatoes and peppers, please see the following publication at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/IN/IN16900.pdf "Insect Management for Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplant"
September 3, 2014
if I plant this purple passionflower....will caterpillars start eating my tomatoes and green bell peppers. Thanks John Nelson
July 3, 2014
Glad to hear it, have a wonderful weekend!
July 3, 2014
Worked like a charm!
July 3, 2014
Hi Suzy, The link should take you to a leaflet publication by USDA Forest Service titled "Walnut Caterpillar." I checked the link embedded in the article and it is working tonight, but sometimes there can be other issues. I am adding the link below in plain text so that you can try to copy and paste into your internet browser. If you are still unable to access it I would be happy to scan it and send it to you directly as a .pdf in an email next week. Julie http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/fidls/walnutcat/walnutfidl.htm
July 2, 2014
Your link to the US Forest Service is not valid
February 19, 2014
It would be great if you would submit this article for newspaper publication, especially Tallahassee Democrat. There are so many people that are misinformed about lichens and Spanish moss. Donna Legare Native Nurseries
December 3, 2013
Enjoyed your article. Wish I had time to plant winter annuals.
November 25, 2013
Noticed one of our longleaf pine saplings, in the middle stage has died out on the top 3" of the bud. The trunk and several lower limbs still have healhty green looking growth buds. We are located 3 blocks north of the Gulf of Mexico in Franklin County Fla. elevation +27' sandy soil. Approximately 25 trees are @200yr old, some cat faced. Another 50 trees are post turpentine era, and another 75 are in the grass and middle stages. We eliminated all the loblolly pine 10yrs ago in hopes of restoring the longleaf presence on our 4+acres. Regards, Paul Standish
November 19, 2013
Thank you, Phil!
November 19, 2013
Excellent article! One of your M.G.'s ...Phil_Smith...
September 10, 2013
What type of grass do you have? If you have centipede, you will not need any additional fertilizer for the season. How much did you put out in August/
September 10, 2013
Applied fertilizer to grass early August as I was away for 5-6 months. Can I apply again on 9/15?
January 10, 2013
January 10, 2013
November 14, 2012
Have any favorite seafood recipes for the Holidays or maybe a treasured family memory? Post a comment and share!
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